Pearl of Amalfi
There are places that live in postcards, and then there’s Positano—a place so vividly alive it seems to hum with sunlight. Our recent visit was a kind of dream you drift through slowly, waking each day to the scent of espresso and sea air.
Our Homebase: Mornings at Posides
Each morning began at Posides, a charming café tucked into the hillside like so many of Positano’s treasures. We practically made it our second home—brunch, lunch, and, of course, the daily morning coffee ritual. The staff began to recognize us after day two, always remembering our favorite orders and offering extra smiles with the macchiato. There's something grounding about returning to the same table overlooking the cliffs each day—watching the light change on the water while sipping espresso became our anchor.
Dining with a View: Le Galli & a Private Chef Night to Remember
Dinner at Le Galli was the kind of meal that makes time slow down. Set high above the sea, with the Galli Islands in the distance, we shared fresh seafood, velvety pasta, and limoncello under a pink and gold sky.
But the true highlight was our private chef dinner by Baldassarre Fiorentino. A culinary poet, he crafted a multi-course experience that brought the region to life on our plates—anchovies kissed with citrus, handmade scialatielli with clams, and a lemon cream dessert so delicate it barely stayed on the spoon. It was intimate, unforgettable, and somehow even better than a restaurant.
Scent, Style, and the Art of the Everyday
One of the more unexpected joys was stumbling upon Profumi di Positano, where I worked with their perfumer to create a custom scent—something earthy and marine, laced with bergamot and wild herbs. It smells like our time there: warm, bright, and just a little wild.
We also found CREO Sunglasses, an artisan shop that handcrafts frames from layered wood veneer. I had a pair custom made, and they’ve already become a signature piece—functional art, made just steps from the Mediterranean. Watching them shape the wood, polish the lenses, and burnish the arms was hypnotic. These aren't souvenirs—they’re stories.
Fresh Fish and Gelato: The Positano Diet
We bought fresh fish from Ittica Positano one morning—glistening dorado and red mullet caught just hours earlier. The fishmonger wrapped it like a gift, nodding approvingly when I asked how best to cook it. A quick pan-fry with olive oil and lemon was all it needed.
And gelato? Every chance we got. Hazelnut, pistachio, lemon—each scoop felt like a small celebration. It became our daily reward for climbing hundreds of stairs (Positano’s not for the faint of quad).
A Day in Amalfi
One breezy afternoon, we took a boat to Amalfi town. More than the paper and cathedrals, I loved simply wandering the backstreets—peeking into courtyards, sipping spritz in shaded piazzas, and catching glimpses of the coast through arched alleyways. It’s quieter than Positano, more monastic in its rhythm, but no less magical.
Leaving, but Not Really
Even now, back home, the taste of lemon lingers on my tongue, and I swear I can still hear the scooters echoing through the narrow streets. Positano wasn't just a place we visited—it seeped into our skin. And like the custom cologne in my suitcase and the handcrafted sunglasses I now wear, I carry a piece of it with me.